For most people, a 5% concentration at a free-acid pH around 3.5 is the sweet spot — strong enough to fade dark spots, melasma, and PIH, gentle enough for regular use without triggering the inflammation that causes new pigmentation. That's the formulation behind The 5% Toner. Avoid glycolic acids that are buffered above pH 4.5 (won't penetrate), under 4% concentration (won't work on darker pigmentation), or spiked with fragrance allergens (trigger the inflammation you're trying to fade).
5% is the clinically-relevant floor. Weaker concentrations (2–3%) mostly exfoliate the surface without reaching the pigmented cells that matter. Stronger concentrations (10%+) over-exfoliate and can paradoxically make hyperpigmentation worse via subclinical inflammation. 5% at pH 3.5 delivers meaningful cell turnover at a use frequency (2–3× weekly) your skin can tolerate long-term — and consistency over 8–12 weeks matters more than a stronger formula used sporadically.
Yes — and this is where most hyperpigmentation routines fail. Glycolic acid resurfaces skin, but leaves it vulnerable to two things: barrier damage and sun-driven re-pigmentation. That's why the products in this collection work as a system: The 5% Toner for resurfacing, Ceramide Repair Complex overnight to rebuild the lipids acids deplete, and Daily Defense Moisturiser every morning to prevent sun exposure from undoing the fade. Using glycolic without the other two is the main reason hyperpigmentation comes back after treatment.
They work differently and are often layered rather than chosen between. Glycolic acid physically removes pigmented cells via cell turnover — best for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, rough texture, and older dark spots. Vitamin C inhibits melanin production upstream, before pigment even forms — best for melasma and preventing new dark spots. In an ideal routine you use both: glycolic 2–3× weekly PM, vitamin C daily AM under SPF. Don't apply them in the same session — the pH mismatch reduces vitamin C's efficacy.
A four-step, three-product routine. PM 2–3× weekly: The 5% Toner after cleansing, on a cotton pad. PM every night: Ceramide Repair Complex to rebuild the barrier — on glycolic nights and off-nights alike. AM every day: Daily Defense Moisturiser with SPF 30+, non-negotiable. Expect visible fading in 4–8 weeks and full results around 12 weeks. Skipping SPF resets the clock — sun exposure regenerates the pigment glycolic is fading.